Cloche Hats: Vintage 1920s Style for Modern Women

A cloche hat is a close-fitting, bell-shaped hat that revolutionized women's fashion in the 1920s. The name derives from the French word "cloche," meaning bell, perfectly describing its distinctive, rounded silhouette that hugs the head snugly. Unlike wide-brimmed sun hats or structured fedoras, the cloche sits low on the forehead with a short, downward-sloping brim, creating an intimate, sophisticated aesthetic that defined the Jazz Age.

These elegant hats typically feature a felt or wool construction, although modern interpretations also incorporate straw, cotton, and embellished fabrics for various seasons and occasions. The close fit that characterizes cloche hats was explicitly designed to complement the newly fashionable bobbed hairstyles of the 1920s, making the hat and haircut inseparable symbols of modern womanhood during the flapper era.

Key Design Features of Cloche Hats

The cloche hat's distinctive construction includes several defining elements:

Bell-Shaped Crown: The rounded, dome-like crown sits close to the head, creating the signature silhouette. This snug fit required precise blocking and shaping during the manufacturing process.

Short Brim: The narrow brim slopes gently downward, typically covering the forehead and sitting just above the eyebrows. Some variations feature a minimal or non-visible brim, emphasizing the bell shape.

Decorative Elements: Many wool cloche hats for women feature embellishments like ribbon bands, fabric flowers, bows, feathers, or beaded details that add personality while maintaining the clean lines.

Low Positioning: Worn pulled down over the forehead, cloche hats create rakish, sophisticated angles that became synonymous with 1920s glamour.

Adjustable Sizing: Quality modern cloches often include internal drawstrings or elastic bands, ensuring a comfortable, secure fit across various head sizes.

The Glamorous History of Cloche Hats

Caroline Reboux's Revolutionary Design

French milliner Caroline Reboux invented the cloche hat in 1908, but the style didn't achieve widespread popularity until the post-World War I era. Reboux, one of Paris's most celebrated hat designers, created the close-fitting design as a departure from the elaborate, oversized hats that dominated Edwardian fashion. Her innovative approach emphasized simplicity, elegance, and practicality over excessive ornamentation.

The timing proved perfect. As women entered the workforce during WWI and gained new freedoms afterward, fashion evolved to reflect these social changes. The cloche's streamlined silhouette matched the modern woman's need for practical, comfortable headwear that didn't interfere with daily activities.

The 1920s-1930s Golden Era

The cloche reached peak popularity during the Roaring Twenties, becoming the definitive hat style of the Jazz Age. As flappers embraced shorter hairstyles, such as the bob and shingle cut, the cloche's close fit perfectly showcased these daring new looks. No fashionable woman's wardrobe was complete without several cloche hats in various colors and materials.

The hat symbolized liberation from restrictive Victorian fashion. Women wore their cloches tilted at rakish angles, pairing them with drop-waist dresses, long pearl necklaces, and T-strap shoes for the quintessential 1920s aesthetic. The style transcended all social classes, with working women wearing simple felt versions, while wealthy socialites opted for elaborate designs featuring costly embellishments.

Fashion icons embraced the cloche enthusiastically. Silent film stars popularized the style on screen, while real-life style setters like Coco Chanel incorporated it into their signature looks. The hat's popularity extended internationally, becoming standard fashion from New York to London to Paris.

By the mid-1930s, as fashion shifted toward softer, more romantic silhouettes with longer hair, the cloche's dominance began to fade. Women favored wider-brimmed hats and more elaborate styles that complemented the decade's changing aesthetic.

Revival Periods: The cloche has experienced multiple comebacks since its 1920s heyday:

1960s Revival: Designers revisited 1920s styles as part of the decade's fascination with vintage fashion. Modified cloches appeared in collections alongside other period-inspired pieces.

1980s Return: The decade's love affair with retro styling brought back cloche-inspired designs, often updated with contemporary materials and proportions.

2000s-Present: Modern fashion embraced vintage aesthetics, with celebrities and designers reinterpreting cloche hats for contemporary wardrobes. Recent years have seen increased interest in authentic 1920s styling, bringing the cloche back into mainstream fashion consciousness.

How to Wear a Cloche Hat in Modern Times

Achieving the Authentic 1920s Look

Recreating genuine Jazz Age style requires understanding the period's proportions and styling conventions:

Hair Considerations: The cloche works best with short or tucked hair. If you have longer hair, create low buns, chignons positioned at the nape, or tuck hair behind your ears. The goal is to maintain the hat's close fit without bulk interfering with its silhouette.

Proper Positioning: Wear your cloche hat pulled low on the forehead, covering eyebrows, and tilted slightly to one side. This rakish angle captures an authentic 1920s spirit while creating flattering facial framing.

Period-Appropriate Outfits: Pair with drop-waist dresses, pleated skirts, Mary Jane heels, and strings of pearls. Choose dresses with loose, straight silhouettes rather than fitted waists. Add T-strap shoes and cloche-appropriate makeup featuring defined lips and subtle eye makeup for complete period accuracy.

Accessories: Keep jewelry statement-making but straightforward. Long pearl necklaces, Art Deco brooches, and vintage-inspired clutches complement the look without overwhelming it.

Contemporary Styling Approaches

Modern cloche styling balances vintage inspiration with current fashion sensibilities:

Minimalist Modern: Combine neutral felt cloches with streamlined contemporary pieces. Monochrome outfits, Custom trousers, simple blouses, and sleek ankle boots create a sophisticated city style that honors the cloche's heritage without looking costume-like.

Casual Weekend: Style cotton or straw cloches with jeans, tucked blouses, and loafers. This relaxed approach brings vintage flair to everyday wear, making the cloche a practical accessory rather than a special-occasion piece.

Winter Elegance: Layer wool cloche hats over camel coat, cashmere scarves, and knee-high boots. The bell shape complements structured outerwear while providing warmth and polish during cold months.

Bohemian Romance: Pair straw cloches with flowing fabrics, embroidered details, and natural textures. Maxi skirts, peasant blouses, and ankle-strap sandals create festival-ready style with vintage character.

Smart Casual: Combine felt cloches with blazers, midi skirts, and Oxford shoes for office-appropriate vintage styling that remains professional and polished.

Cloche Hats for Different Face Shapes

Choosing the right cloche style flatters your features while maintaining authentic character:

Round Faces: Wear your cloche tilted at pronounced angles to create vertical lines that elongate. Choose styles with a slight height in the crown rather than completely flat designs. Asymmetrical embellishments positioned to one side add visual length.

Oval Faces: Lucky you; most cloche styles naturally flatter oval face shapes. Experiment with various crown heights, embellishment styles, and positioning angles to discover your most flattering options.

Long Faces: Position your cloche lower on the forehead for balanced proportions. Select styles with wider, more pronounced brims that incorporate horizontal elements. Avoid excessive crown height that further elongates.

Heart-Shaped Faces: Center positioning showcases the cloche's curves while balancing wider foreheads. Soft embellishments and subtle angles complement delicate chin structures without overwhelming features.

Square Faces: Soft, rounded crown shapes and curved brims complement strong jawlines. Choose cloches with gentle embellishments rather than angular details. Slight tilting creates diagonal lines that soften facial angles.

A detailed guide on hat styles for face shapes provides additional tips for finding your perfect match across all hat styles.

Materials and Seasonal Variations

Felt Cloche Hats for Winter

Wool felt and fur felt cloches provide classic styling with practical warmth for cooler months. These structured materials hold their bell shape beautifully while offering insulation against the cold of autumn and winter.

Wool Felt: Affordable and durable, wool felt cloches work beautifully for everyday winter wear. The material maintains shape through regular use while developing character over time. Choose darker colors, such as burgundy, forest green, navy, or classic black, for versatile cold-weather styling.

Fur Felt: Premium fur felt (typically rabbit or beaver) offers superior softness and longevity. The material's density provides excellent warmth while remaining lightweight and comfortable during extended wear.

Winter Styling: Pair felt cloches with wool coats, chunky knit scarves, leather gloves, and boots. The combination creates cohesive cold-weather looks that honor vintage styling while remaining thoroughly practical for British winters.

Straw and Light Materials for Summer

Lightweight cloche options keep you stylish during warmer months without sacrificing the style's distinctive silhouette:

Straw Construction: Woven straw cloches allow for natural breathability in warm weather while maintaining their structure. Natural colors like cream, tan, and pale pink reflect heat and complement summer palettes.

Cotton and Linen: Fabric cloches made from breathable materials offer casual summer alternatives with a vintage charm. These work beautifully for garden parties, outdoor concerts, and warm-weather travel.

Summer Styling: Combine straw cloches with flowing sundresses, sandals, and minimal jewelry for effortless warm-weather sophistication. The bell shape provides modest sun protection while creating refined summer elegance.

Browse our complete women's hats collection for seasonal options across all styles, including summer alternatives like boater hats, for structured, warm-weather elegance.

Where to Buy Authentic Cloche Hats

Finding quality cloche hats requires attention to construction, materials, and authentic design details:

What to Look For:

• Proper bell-shaped crown with smooth, even blocking

• Quality wool or felt that holds shape without collapsing

• Adjustable sizing for a comfortable, secure fit

• Appropriate brim proportions (narrow, downward-sloping)

• Well-executed embellishments that enhance rather than overwhelm

At Novella Hats, our vintage-inspired cloche hats feature authentic 1920s styling with modern comfort features. Each hat includes adjustable inner drawstrings for a perfect fit, quality materials that develop character over time, and decorative details inspired by period designs.

Whether you choose classic felt for winter sophistication or lightweight straw for summer elegance, authentic cloche construction ensures your hat maintains its distinctive silhouette for years to come.

Frequently Asked Questions About Cloche Hats

Are cloche hats still in style?

Yes, cloche hats remain fashionable and have experienced a significant revival in recent years. Modern fashion has embraced vintage aesthetics, with celebrities and style influencers frequently wearing cloche hats to events and in everyday settings. The style's timeless bell shape and sophisticated silhouette work beautifully with both period-inspired outfits and contemporary minimalist wardrobes, proving that great design transcends decades.

Can women with long hair wear cloche hats?

Absolutely. While cloche hats were initially designed for bobbed 1920s hairstyles, women with longer hair can wear them successfully by tucking their hair behind their ears, creating low buns or chignons at the nape, or styling loose waves that flow from beneath the hat. The key is avoiding bulk at the crown that interferes with the hat's close-fitting silhouette. Low ponytails and side braids also work well.

Do cloche hats suit all face shapes?

Cloche hats can flatter most face shapes when worn correctly. The key is adjusting positioning and tilt to complement your features. Round faces benefit from angled positioning that creates the illusion of length, while long faces look best with lower placement. Oval faces suit virtually any cloche style, and heart-shaped faces look beautiful when positioned centrally. The hat's soft curves generally create flattering frames for various facial structures.

What's the difference between a cloche hat and other vintage hats?

Cloche hats are distinguished by their close-fitting, bell-shaped crowns and short, downward-sloping brims. Unlike wide-brimmed fedora hats or structured boater hats, cloches hug the head snugly and sit low on the forehead. This intimate fit and distinctive bell silhouette make them instantly recognizable as icons of 1920s fashion.

Can men wear cloche hats?

While primarily designed as women's accessories, fashion has no absolute rules. Some avant-garde or artistic men incorporate cloche-style hats into their wardrobes, particularly in creative or fashion-forward contexts. However, men seeking vintage-inspired headwear typically choose styles like trilby hats, fedoras, or flat caps that were historically designed with masculine proportions.

How should a cloche hat fit?

A properly fitted cloche sits comfortably and snugly on your head without causing pressure points. It should pull down to cover your forehead, typically sitting just above your eyebrows when positioned correctly. 

What occasions are appropriate for wearing cloche hats?

Cloche hats suit a variety of occasions, from casual to semi-formal. Wear felt versions to autumn and winter events, such as garden parties, vintage-themed gatherings, afternoon tea, art gallery openings, and sophisticated city outings. Straw cloches work beautifully for summer weddings, outdoor concerts, farmers markets, and vacation travel. The key is matching your cloche's material and styling to the event's level of formality.

How do I care for my wool cloche hat?

Store your cloche hat on a hat stand or in a hat box away from direct sunlight to maintain its shape. Gently brush felt with a soft-bristle hat brush to remove dust, working in the direction of the nap. Spot clean with a slightly damp cloth when needed, allowing the hat to air dry completely. Avoid getting wool felt excessively wet, as this can cause it to shrink or distort. Steam carefully to refresh fibers and remove minor wrinkles.