Men's Top Hats

Top Hats: The Ultimate Statement in Formal Elegance

Top hats represent the pinnacle of formal menswear. These tall, cylindrical hats with flat crowns command attention and respect in ways no other headwear can match. Whether you're attending a black-tie wedding, Royal Ascot, or a formal gala, men's top hats bring ceremonial gravitas that completes the most distinguished outfits. At Novella Hats, our collection combines authentic styling and quality construction for occasions that demand nothing less than exceptional.

A popular legend credits London haberdasher John Hetherington with creating the first silk top hat in 1797, though historians debate the accuracy of this frequently republished 19th-century story.When you want headwear that makes an entrance, formal top hats deliver every single time.

The Fascinating History of Top Hats

Controversial Beginnings

Legend credits London haberdasher John Hetherington with creating the first silk top hat in 1797. According to popular accounts, when he walked down The Strand wearing his creation, it caused chaos. Women fainted, onlookers panicked, and a young boy reportedly broke his arm in the commotion. 

While this story may be embellished, top hats did replace the tricorne and bicorne styles that dominated 18th-century fashion. The dramatic height and bold silhouette challenged conventional notions of acceptable headwear. What started as scandalous quickly became standard for anyone with social aspirations.

The Golden Age

By the early 1800s, men's top hats had become essential attire for upper and middle-class gentlemen across Europe and America. They were worn daily for business in London's financial district, with frock coats and morning dress. The black top hat became synonymous with respectability, authority, and success.

Victorian and Edwardian eras marked the peak of top hat popularity. During this time, skilled hatters crafted vintage top hats with meticulous attention to detail using traditional techniques. Quality silk top hats from this period featured genuine silk plush material created on looms that no longer exist, making authentic vintage pieces highly valuable today.

Decline and Ceremonial Survival

Top hats began fading from everyday wear in the early 20th century. The rise of automobiles made tall hats impractical. More casual fashion sensibilities after World War I pushed formal wear toward simpler styles. By the 1960s, formal top hats had virtually disappeared from daily life.

However, certain occasions kept top hats alive. Royal Ascot made them mandatory for the Royal Enclosure. Wedding top hats remained popular for traditional ceremonies. State occasions, formal portraits, and ceremonial events continued requiring them. Today, classic top hats survive as symbols of ultimate formality rather than everyday wear.

Understanding Top Hat Construction

Materials and Quality

Traditional silk top hats used genuine silk plush with a long nap, which created a distinctive lustrous finish. The looms that produced this material no longer exist, making authentic antique silk top hats increasingly rare and valuable. These vintage pieces develop a beautiful patina while maintaining structural integrity through the decades.

Modern top hats typically use melusine, a long-haired fur felt that approximates silk's polished appearance. Quality melusine men's top hats create beautifully finished surfaces with elegant profiles. The material holds shape exceptionally well while costing less than authentic silk versions.

Fur felt top hats offer another contemporary option. These hats are made from 100% rabbit or hare fur felt, providing durability and excellent shape retention. While lacking silk's distinctive sheen, fur felt formal top hats deliver authentic styling at accessible prices.

Crown Heights and Shapes

Top hats typically stand between 5.5 and 6 inches tall, though historical examples range from shorter "opera" heights to dramatically tall "stovepipe" variations. The most common shape features slightly curved sides, creating a subtle bell profile. Straight-sided versions exist but appear less frequently.

Taller vintage top hats (around 6 inches) work well for formal daytime events and walking, hence the term "walking topper." Shorter versions (5.5 inches) suit most formal occasions and maintain better proportion for average-height wearers. Choose height based on your build and the formality level of your event.

The crown should sit level on your head without tilting forward or back. Proper fit means the top hat rests comfortably about an inch above your ears with the brim parallel to the ground. Never wear classic top hats at angles or tilted, which ruins their dignified appearance.

Brim and Band Details

The narrow brim on top hats typically measures 1.5 to 2 inches wide enough to frame the face without creating bulk. On quality examples, brims curve slightly upward at the edges, adding refined finishing detail. This subtle curl distinguishes well-made men's top hats from cheaper versions with flat, lifeless brims.

The grosgrain ribbon band (often called a mourning band) wraps around the base of the crown. Black ribbon remains standard for black top hats, though grey occasionally appears on lighter-colored versions. The band serves decorative and practical purposes, covering the join between the crown and brim while adding visual interest.

Essential Top Hat Colors

The Timeless Black

Black top hats represent the most traditional and versatile choice. Black works for every formal occasion requiring top hats, from weddings to state dinners to Royal Ascot. The color projects authority, sophistication, and unwavering adherence to tradition.

Despite the monochrome palette, a quality black top hat in silk or melusine finish catches light beautifully, creating dimension and visual interest. The lustrous surface distinguishes expensive formal top hats from matte felt versions. When in doubt, black top hats always make the correct choice for maximum formality.

Grey Alternatives

Grey top hats appear less frequently but suit morning dress beautifully. Light to medium grey works particularly well for spring and summer formal occasions. Grey provides a softer alternative to black while maintaining appropriate formality for weddings and daytime ceremonial events.

The grey classic top hat pairs naturally with grey morning coats and waistcoats, creating harmonious monochromatic looks. This color choice shows refined taste and understanding of traditional formal wear beyond basic black options.

When to Wear Top Hats

White Tie Events

The most formal dress code, white tie, requires top hats, which are non-negotiable elements. Pair your black top hat with tailcoats, white pique waistcoats, white bow ties, and patent leather shoes. This ultra-formal combination works for state dinners, opera opening nights, and the most distinguished galas.

Formal top hats at white-tie events should be silk or silk-like melusine finish. Matte fur felt versions, while acceptable for less formal occasions, don't meet white-tie standards. The lustrous finish matters as much as the shape when dressing at this level.

Morning Dress Occasions

Morning dress traditionally includes top hats as essential components. Wedding top hats appear most frequently in this context, paired with morning coats, striped trousers, and waistcoats. This combination works for formal daytime weddings, garden parties, and prestigious racing events like Royal Ascot.

Royal Ascot specifically requires top hats for entry to the Royal Enclosure. Without one, admission is denied regardless of how perfectly appointed the rest of your outfit may be. For this reason alone, serious formal wear enthusiasts need at least one quality top hat in their wardrobes.

Ceremonial and Cultural Events

Certain cultural ceremonies and historical reenactments appropriately feature vintage top hats. Period-accurate costumes for Victorian, Edwardian, or Gilded Age events demand authentic styling details, and theatre productions set in these eras require top hats for proper character representation.

Formal portrait photography occasionally incorporates men's top hats for distinguished, timeless aesthetics. The hat's strong vertical lines and unmistakable profile create powerful visual statements in black and white or color photography.

Styling Your Top Hat

Traditional Morning Dress

The classic pairing combines black top hats with black or grey morning coats, striped grey trousers, white dress shirts with wing collars, silk or satin ties, grey waistcoats, and black Oxford shoes. This time-tested combination has worked for 150 years and perfectly serves formal occasions.

Pay attention to proportion. The top hat should balance with your coat's length and your height. Shorter men might prefer 5.5-inch crowns, while taller gents can carry 6-inch versions without looking overwhelmed. The goal is harmonious visual balance from head to toe.

White Tie Perfection

Pair silk top hats with black tailcoats, white pique waistcoats, white bow ties, white dress shirts with wing collars, and patent leather shoes. This extremely formal combination represents the peak of Western formal dress codes. Every detail matters at this level, from glove quality to hat finish.

Hold the top hat when entering buildings, placing it crown-down on appropriate surfaces or your lap when seated. Never place formal top hats with the brim down, which can damage their shape. The etiquette surrounding top hats is as essential as wearing them correctly.

Contemporary Formal Interpretations

Modern formal wear occasionally pairs top hats with more contemporary suit cuts while maintaining traditional accessories. This approach works for weddings where grooms want classic styling without complete historical accuracy. For this balanced aesthetic, choose well-fitted modern morning coats with classic wedding top hats.

Finding the Perfect Fit

Top hats require precise sizing because their stiff construction prevents adjustments. Measure your head circumference at its widest point, typically an inch above your ears. This measurement determines your size. Most men's top hats range in standard offerings from 6 7/8 to 7 3/4.

The hat should sit comfortably without pressure points or gaps. You should be able to shake your head moderately without the top hat shifting. Too tight causes discomfort during extended wear at formal events. Too loose looks sloppy and risks the hat falling off during photographs or ceremonies.

Care and Storage

Handle top hats by the brim, never by the crown, which can dent or distort over time. Use both hands to distribute pressure evenly when putting on or removing the hat. Store silk top hats in proper hat boxes away from dust, moisture, and direct sunlight, which can fade and damage the materials.

Brush top hats regularly with soft-bristled hat brushes, working toward the nap. This removes dust and maintains the lustrous finish that makes formal top hats visually striking. Professional cleaning preserves historical materials and construction better than home attempts for vintage top hats.

Never store top hats in humid environments like attics or basements. Moisture damages antique pieces' felt bodies and silk plush finishes. Climate-controlled storage protects your investment in these significant formal accessories.

Building Your Collection

Most men need only one top hat unless they regularly attend multiple formal events requiring different styles. Start with a black top hat in your correct size. This single piece handles the vast majority of formal occasions requiring top hats.

Consider vintage top hats if authentic historical styling matters to you. Genuine antique pieces from the early to mid-1900s often feature superior construction compared to modern reproductions. They've already proven durability through decades of survival. Just ensure proper sizing and condition before purchasing.

For related formal headwear, explore our Bowler Hats collection for slightly less formal British style, Fedora Hats when you need refined but less ceremonial options, or browse our complete Men's Hat collection for every occasion.

Why Choose Novella Hats

Our top hats collection focuses on authentic construction and appropriate styling for genuine formal occasions. We understand that wedding top hats and ceremonial headwear demand quality that lives up to the significance of these events. Our carefully selected range provides options from accessible modern versions to premium traditional styles.

Browse our formal top hats today and discover headwear worthy of your most important occasions. Whether you're preparing for a formal wedding or prestigious event or building a complete formal wardrobe, Novella Hats delivers the quality and authenticity these moments demand.